LovieBear

 

Plarn Bag

 Plarn  (~50 grocery bags)

6mm hook

Terms:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

      sc24: means to do a sc in the next 24 stitches

      2sc: means that you do 2 sc in the same stitch

inc: increase stitch (same as 2sc)

     2inc: means you will do 2sc(2), or in other words you will put 2 sc in the same stitch two times.

Base of Bag

Start with ~2 thick plastic bags cut into plarn.

Make a slip knot, ch27.

2sc in 2nd loop from hook, sc24, 2sc last loop (where slip knot started)

go to other side of chain and start again

2sc in slip knot loop (crochet over slip knot tail.  This is actually putting 4 sc in the slip knot loop), sc24, 2sc in last loop of round.

do 2 rows of continuous rounds of sc with thick plastic plarn.  

1 round of thick plarn (56 stitches).

When you add on the thinner plastic plarn do 2inc stitches at both corners of the bag.  This will give 1 round of the thin plarn (60 stitches)

The remaining bag will be continuous sc till you have between 32-34 rounds.

Handle

When you finish your last round go sc3 past the corner, ch1, turn, (sc6, ch1, turn) x 62. (63 rounds)

Make sure strap is not twisted. Sc through both strap and other corner of bag.  Fasten off & Weave in ends.  

Note:  Typically you can get 6 (sc) out of one cut from the grocery bag.  Each round of the bag is 60 (sc) with the thin plarn so that would be at least 1 whole grocery bags worth of material.  I did  the plarn bag pictured, going from bottom to top (after the thick plarn base):

2 rounds grey

2 rounds white 

2 rounds brown

5 rounds grey

2 rounds red

10 rounds white

2 rounds red

5 rounds grey

2 rounds brown

brown handle (63 rounds of sc6 ~7 bags worth)

So I would make sure that I have the following number of grocery bags to accomplish this design for the plarn bag:

grey = 13

white = 13

brown = 11

red = 5

Thick plastic bag = 2-3

Plarn

Gather together all your plastic bags. Fold each bag over and cut off the top and tail and then cut into 3cm (1.25 in)-wide strips.

Join all your bags together to create one long strip.  Loop the end of one bag over the other bag and then pull the two ends to join. (like joining two rubber bands)

Roll up the long plarn you have created by wrapping the end of the plarn around your thumb, pointer, and index finger about 15 times.  Remove your thumb from the center and continue wrapping (not too tightly) around and around.  See a video of it here.

Baptism Bear

 Baptism Bear google file

Materials:
Yarn (4mm recommended hook size or smaller) 
         (pictured is a size 3 yarn with 4mm recommended 
           hook size.  I used a 3.5mm hook)
     Brown - 230 yd
     Blue - 200 yd
     A (stripe) - 100 yd
     B (stripe) - 100 yd
     Light Brown - 25 yd
    plush yarn - 50 yd
Hook (2-3 sizes smaller than 
          yarn recommendation)
Safety Eyes - 2 (10-15mm)
Fiber Fill for stuffing
Tapestry Needle

Stitch Guide:

st = stitch
sts = stitches
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = increase (2sc in one stitch)
dec = decrease (flo next 2 st,yo, pull through flo stitches, yo, pull through both loops on hook)
yo = yarn over
flo = front loop only
blo - back loop only
FO = Fasten Off
IFO = invisible Fasten Off
WE = weave in ends (needs at least a 6 inch tail)
IS = invisible sew
MR = magic ring

Notes:

1.  Do not work with really dark yarn.  A personal preference with my aging eyes.  Really hard to see the stitches

2. Color changes happen on EVEN row numbers

    DO NOT cut threads between color changes.  

    Tie in square knots the two colors after working a 

    few rows in the beginning.  

3. sc 2 = single crochet in the next 2 stitches

    2sc = 2 single crochets in the next stitch

4. Use round marker for starting rounds.

3. R1 = Round 1 or Row 1

         (rows are only worked in bib and suspenders       

         for overalls) 

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Base Ring: ENDURE

Use brown yarn

Make a slip knot

ch 66

sl st flo first ch after slip knot to make a ring

R1: sc 66. (sts 66)

R2: (inc, sc 10)x6. (sts 72)

R3: (inc, sc 11)x6. (sts 78)

R4: (inc, sc 12)x6. (sts 84)

R5: (inc, sc 13)x6. (sts 90)

R6: sc 90. (sts 90)

R7: (inc, sc 14)x6. (sts 96)

R8-15: sc 96. (sts 96)

R16: (dec, sc 14)x6. (sts 90)

R17: sc 90. (sts 90)

R18: (dec, sc 13)x6. (sts 84)

R19: (dec, sc 12)x6. (sts 78)

R20: (dec, sc 11)x6. (sts 72)

R21: (dec, sc 10)x6. (sts 66)

R22: sl st to blo with remaining loop 

of being chain to close ring.  Stuff every 5-6 st.  

WE.

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Base Cone: 

Start with brown yarn

MR

R1: 6sc into MR. (sts 6)

R2: (inc)x6. (sts 12)

R3: (inc, sc)x6. (sts 18)

R4: (inc, sc 2)x6. (sts 24)

R5: (inc, sc 3)x6. (sts 30)

R6: (inc, sc 4)x6. (sts 36)

R7: (inc, sc 5)x6. (sts 42)

R8: (inc, sc 6)x6. (sts 48)

R9: (inc, sc 7)x6. (sts 54)

R10: (inc, sc 8)x6. (sts 60)

R11: (inc, sc 9)x6. (sts 66)

cut long tail and IS into R22 of Base Ring

Start with blue yarn

R1: (dec, sc 9)x6. (sts 60)

R2: (dec, sc 3)x12. (sts 48)

R3: (dec, sc 6)x6. (sts 42)

R4-8: sc 42. (sts 42)

R9: (dec, sc 5)x6. (sts 36)

start lettering Holy Ghost.  Begin opposite side as the round marker.  Leave long enough tail to tie a knot at the end of the lettering of Holy Ghost.

Start between rows 3&4 to start letter G.  Offset Holy 

Stuff cone lightly

R10: (dec, sc 4)x6. (sts 30)

R11-14: sc 30. (sts 30)

R15: (dec, sc 3)x6. (sts 24)

Continue A then B yarn, color changes on even rows

R16-20: sc 24. (sts 24)

R21: (dec, sc 2)x6. (sts 18)

stuff cone lightly

R22-27: sc 18. (sts 18)

R28: (dec, sc)x6. (sts 12)

stuff cone lightly

R29-33: sc 12. (sts 12)

stuff cone lightly

R34: (dec)x6. (sts 6) 

FO

flo to close the hole

WE

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First Ring: SERVE

Use blue yarn

Make a slip knot

ch 54

sl st flo first ch after slip knot to make a ring

R1: sc 54. (sts 54)

R2: (inc, sc 8)x6. (sts 60)

R3: (inc, sc 9)x6. (sts 66)

R4: (inc, sc 10)x6. (sts 72)

R5: (inc, sc 11)x6. (sts 78)

R6: sc 78. (sts 78)

R7: (inc, sc 12)x6. (sts 84)

R8-15: sc 84. (sts 84)

R16: (dec, sc 12)x6. (sts 78)

R17: sc 78. (sts 78)

R18: (dec, sc 11)x6. (sts 72)

R19: (dec, sc 10)x6. (sts 66)

R20: (dec, sc 9)x6. (sts 60)

R21: (dec, sc 8)x6. (sts 54)

R22: sl st to blo with remaining loop 

of being chain to close ring.  Stuff every 5-6 st.  

WE.

-----------------------------------------------------------

Second Ring: NAME

Use blue yarn

Make a slip knot

ch 42

sl st flo first ch after slip knot to make a ring

R1: sc 42. (sts 42)

R2: (inc, sc 6)x6. (sts 48)

R3: (inc, sc 7)x6. (sts 54)

R4: (inc, sc 8)x6. (sts 60)

R5: (inc, sc 9)x6. (sts 66)

R6: sc 66. (sts 66)

R7: (inc, sc 10)x6. (sts 72)

R8-15: sc 72. (sts 72)

R16: (dec, sc 10)x6. (sts 66)

R17: sc 66. (sts 66)

R18: (dec, sc 9)x6. (sts 60)

R19: (dec, sc 8)x6. (sts 54)

R20: (dec, sc 7)x6. (sts 48)

R21: (dec, sc 6)x6. (sts 42)

R22: sl st to blo with remaining loop 

of being chain to close ring.  Stuff every 5-6 st.  

WE.

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Bib Ring: KEEP

Use A & B yarn

Start with B yarn and change color on EVEN rounds

Make a slip knot

ch 30

sl st flo first ch after slip knot to make a ring

R1: sc 30. (sts 30)

R2: (inc, sc 4)x6. (sts 36) (color change)

R3: (inc, sc 5)x6. (sts 42)

R4: (inc, sc 6)x6. (sts 48)

R5: (inc, sc 7)x6. (sts 54)

R6: sc 54. (sts 54)

R7: (inc, sc 8)x6. (sts 60)

R8-15: sc 60. (sts 60)

R16: (dec, sc 8)x6. (sts 54)

R17: sc 54. (sts 54)

R18: (dec, sc 7)x6. (sts 48)

R19: (dec, sc 6)x6. (sts 42)

R20: (dec, sc 5)x6. (sts 36)

R21: (dec, sc 4)x6. (sts 30)

R22: sl st to blo with remaining loop (no color change)

of being chain to close ring.  Stuff every 5-6 st.  

WE.

----------------------------------------------------

Top Ring: 

Use A & B yarn

Start with B yarn and change color on EVEN rounds

Make a slip knot

ch 18

sl st flo first ch after slip knot to make a ring

R1: sc 18. (sts 18)

R2: (inc, sc 2)x6. (sts 24) (color change)

R3: (inc, sc 3)x6. (sts 30)

R4: (inc, sc 4)x6. (sts 36)

R5: (inc, sc 5)x6. (sts 42)

R6: sc 42. (sts 42)

R7: (inc, sc 6)x6. (sts 48)

R8-15: sc 48. (sts 48)

R16: (dec, sc 6)x6. (sts 42)

R17: sc 42. (sts 42)

R18: (dec, sc 5)x6. (sts 36)

R19: (dec, sc 4)x6. (sts 30)

R20: (dec, sc 3)x6. (sts 24)

R21: (dec, sc 2)x6. (sts 18)

R22: sl st to blo with remaining loop 

         (no color change)

of being chain to close ring.  Stuff every 5-6 st.  

WE.

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Head: 

Use brown yarn

MR

R1: 6sc into MR. (sts 6)

R2: (inc)x6. (sts 12)

R3: (inc, sc)x6. (sts 18)

R4: (inc, sc 2)x6. (sts 24)

R5: (inc, sc 3)x6. (sts 30)

R6: (inc, sc 4)x6. (sts 36)

R7: (inc, sc 5)x6. (sts 42)

R8: (inc, sc 6)x6. (sts 48)

R9: (inc, sc 7)x6. (sts 54)

R10: (inc, sc 8)x6. (sts 60)

R11: sc 60. (sts 60)

R12: (inc, sc 9)x6. (sts 66)

R13-22: sc 66. (sts 66)

Attach safety eyes between rounds 15&16 

with 11 st between them.

R23: (dec, sc 9)x6. (sts 60)

R24: sc 60. (sts 60)

R25: (dec, sc 8)x6. (sts 54)

R26: (dec, sc 7)x6. (sts 48)

R27: (dec, sc 6)x6. (sts 42)

R28: (dec, sc 5)x6. (sts 36)

R29: (dec, sc 4)x6. (sts 30)

R30: (dec, sc 3)x6. (sts 24)

R31: (dec, sc 2)x6. (sts 18)

R32: (dec, sc)x6. (sts 12)

R33: (dec)x6. (sts 6)

FO with long tail for IS onto Top Ring

attach between rounds 29&30 of head.  Put row lines under right arm.

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Snout: 

Use Light brown yarn

MR

R1: 6sc into MR. (sts 6)

R2: (inc)x6. (sts 12)

R3: (inc)x3, sc 3, (inc)x3, sc 3. (sts 18)

R4: sc 2, (inc)x3, sc 6, (inc)x3, sc 4. (sts 24)

R5: sc 4, (inc)x3, sc 9, (inc)x3, sc 5. (sts 30)

R6-8: sc 30. (sts 30)

IFO, leaving long tail for IS onto head.

Embroider nose and mouth with black yarn.  Leave tail for tying off beginning of embroidery to the end. 

Lightly stuff before IS so that you place snout 

properly between eyes and top ring.

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Ears: make 2

Use brown yarn

MR

R1: 6sc into MR. (sts 6)

R2: (inc)x6. (sts 12)

R3: (inc, sc)x6. (sts 18)

R4: sc 18. (sts 18)

R5: (inc, sc 2)x6. (sts 24)

R6:  sc 24. (sts 24)

R7: fold in half and sc 11 across the top to join. (sts 11)

FO with long tail for IS onto Head

attach between rounds 4&14 of head after you have IS inner ears on.

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Inner Ears: make 2

Use Light brown yarn

MR

R1: 5sc into MR. (sts 5)

R2: ch 1 and turn, (inc)x5. (sts 10)

FO with long tail for IS onto Ear between rounds 6&7 centered.

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Long Suspenders: make 2 for Top Ring

Use blue yarn 

Make a slip knot

ch 36

R1-2: sc 15. (sts 15), (ch 1 and turn after row 1)

FO with long tail for IS onto Top Ring next to Head.

-----------------------------------------

Short Suspenders: make 2 for Bib Ring

Use blue yarn

Make a slip knot

ch 16

R1-2: sc 15. (sts 15), (ch 1 and turn after row 1)

FO with long tail for IS onto Top Ring next to Head.

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Bib: 

Use blue yarn

Make a slip knot

ch 15

R1-10: sc 14. (sts 14), (ch 1 and turn after row 1-11)

R11: dec, sc 10, dec. (sts 12)

R11: dec, sc 8, dec. (sts 10)

FO with long tail for IS onto Bib Ring over noticeable row lines.

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Arms: make 2

Use brown yarn

MR

R1: 6sc into MR. (sts 6)

R2: (inc)x6. (sts 12)

R3: (inc, sc)x6. (sts 18)

R4: (inc, sc 2)x6. (sts 24)

R5:  sc 24. (sts 24)

R6: (inc, sc 3)x6. (sts 30)

R7-10: sc 30. (sts 30)

R11: (dec, sc 3)x6. (sts 24)

R12: (dec, sc 2)x6. (sts 18)

Stuff hand lightly.

Continue A then B yarn, color changes on ODD rows

R13-33: sc 18. (sts 18)

R34: fold in half and sc 8 across the top to join. (sts 8)

FO with long tail for IS onto Top Ring

attach above suspenders next to Head.

Large Octopus

 Matterials

- 4.0 mm crochet hook (2-3 sizes smaller than recommended)

- yarn

- 9 mm safety eyes

- tapestry needle 

- scissors

Pattern

make a magic ring

R1: 6 sc into ring (6 st)

R2: 2sc in ea st (12 st)

R3: *sc, 2sc in next st* repeat (18 st)

R4: *sc 2, 2sc in next st* repeat (24 st)

R5: *sc 3 st, 2sc in next st* repeat (30 st)

R6: *sc4, 2sc in next st* repeat (36 st)

R7-12: sc in each st (36 st)

R13: *sc4 st, dec in next st* repeat (30 st)

R14: sc in each st (30 st)

If you are using safety eyes, now is the time to attach them. Using 9mm safety eyes, attach between rows 12 & 13, allowing approximately 5 stitches in between, or whatever distance looks good to you. If you are embroidering the eyes for an octopus for a small child, do so after the octopus is stuffed and completed.

R15: *sc3, dec in next st* repeat (24 st)

R16: sc in each st (24 st)

R17: *sc2,  dec in each st* repeat  (18 st)

R18: *sc,  dec in each st* repeat (12 st)

Stuff the octopus. Now you will work the next row in the front loop only. 

Later you will come back through on the underside to grab those back loops and finish off the octopus.

R19: working in the front loop only, *sc, dec in each st* repeat (8 st).

Make the tentacles as follows:

*ch 50. sc in the 2nd ch from hook. 2-3 sc in ea chain across. sl st 1 chain from body, sl st in the next stitch of the octopus body. Repeat from * 7 more times to make a total of 8 tentacles.

Arrange the octopus so that the tentacles are overlapping the body/head and the open end is up towards you. You will be working in the free loops from row 19 which are now on the underside of your octopus. They can be a bit difficult to see, so just do your best and with a needle loop through the loops, synch, Fasten off yarn and then weave the yarn through the remaining stitches and pull tight.

Microwave Bowl Cozy

 Microwave Bowl Cozy

Materials:

- Size 4 100% Cotton Yarn in two colors, (I Love This Cotton Yarn 180 yards solid color, 153 yards variegated color)

- US H/ 4mm Crochet Hook

- Yarn Needle

- Scissors

Machine wash and tumble dry.  It will shrink slightly. 

I prefer to have the solid color as 1 side of base and bottom, middle, and top row of bowl wall and the variegated color as 1 side as base and middle rows of bowl wall.

    Stitch Abbreviations & Techniques Used:

(ch) chain

(sl st) slip stitch

(sc) single crochet

• (2)sc = place 2 sc in the same stitch
• sc(x) = Consecutive sc.
• example: 2 hdc, hdc4 = place 2 hdc in the first stitch, then in the next 4 stitches you will place 1 hdc in each stitch.

(st) stitch

(sts) stitches

[....] = repeat instructions that are in the []

Each round after round 1 starts with 2hdc.  

• To remember how many hdc(x) just think of the round number you are on and add it to the 2 stitches you did for the 2hdc.

         example: Round 6: *2hdc, hdc4.* 8 times. (48 sts)

• means to place 2 half double crochets in the first stitch, then go to the next stitch 4 stitches and place 1 half double crochet in each stitch.  Then you will repeat this patter 8 times to give you 48 stitches all the way around.  
• You can tell you are round 6 because 2hdc + hdc4 = 6 stitches total

-----------------------------------------------------

Pattern:

Base - make 2 (1 solid, 1 variegated)

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: ch2, 8sc into the magic ring. (8 sts)

Round 2: 2sc into each stitch. (16 sts)

Round 3: [2sc, sc] 8 times (24 sts)

Round 4: [2sc, sc2] 8 times (32 sts)

Round 5: [2sc, sc3] 8 times (40 sts)

Round 6: [2sc, sc4] 8 times (48 sts)

Round 7: [2sc, sc5] 8 times (56 sts)

Round 8:  sc in each stitch (56 sts)

sl st to join to first stitch in round.  Fasten off, and weave in ends.  

--------------------------------------------

Place Base rounds wrong sides together (right sides facing out).  I like to put the variegated side on the bottom of the project and the solid color on the inside of the bowl cozy so you can see it when it is sitting like a bowl.

--------------------------------------------

Bowl Wall

Round 1: with wrong sides of base together (variegated side facing you) using 2 strands solid color, place a slip knot on hook, insert hook in any stitch (blo of variegated and both loops of solid side) yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook (this is a sc join).  DC in same stitch.  Inserting hook in same manner in both layers throughout, sc6.  Then [(sc, dc), sc6] 7 times.  This will give you 8 dc with 7 sc

So it looks like Round 1: (7 sc, 1 dc) 8 times

sl st to join to first sc in round.  Place a stitch marker in stitch.

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Round 2: using 1 strand solid and 1 strand variegated, sc join where you place the stitch marker.  fpdc around post of next dc, sc in each of the next 7 stitches.

So it looks like Round 2: (7 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

sl st to join to first sc in round.  Place a stitch marker in stitch.

from now on you will be ch1 for rows 3-8 when you begin the row

Do an inc in last sc stitch before fpdc when you need to increase your round.

Rounds should look like:

So it looks like Round 1: (7 sc, 1 dc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 2: (7 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 3: (7 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 4: (8 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 5: (8 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 6: (9 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 7: (9 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

So it looks like Round 8: (9 sc, 1 fpdc) 8 times

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

------------------------------------------------------------

Top Row: with inside of cozy facing you, sc join 2 strands of solid color in any fpdc, sc2, skip 2 stitches, 2dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2dc, skip 2 stitches (8 times)  

So it looks like Round 9: (sc2, -, -, 2dc, 3dc, 3dc, 2dc, -, -,) 8 times

On last one do a sc and sl st to join to first sc in round.  

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Pot Holder

Pot Holder

Finished Diameter rounds are for side 1

5 rounds = 5.5 inches

6 rounds = 6 inches

7 rounds = 6.5 inches

8 rounds = 7 inches

9 rounds = 7.5 inches

10 rounds = 8 inches

11 rounds =  8.5 inches

12 rounds = 9 inches

14 rounds = 9.5 inches

15 rounds = 10 inches

16 rounds = 10.5 inches

17 rounds = 11 inches

18 rounds = 11.5 inches

19 rounds = 12 inches

20 rounds = 12.5 inches

--------------------------------

    Materials:

- Size 4 100% Cotton Yarn in two colors, (I Love This Cotton Yarn 180 yards solid color, 153 yards variegated color)

- US H/ 5mm Crochet Hook

- Yarn Needle

- Scissors

Machine wash and tumble dry.  It will shrink slightly. 

I prefer to have the solid color as Side 1 and the variegated color as Side 2

    Stitch Abbreviations & Techniques Used:

(ch) chain

(sl st) slip stitch

(hdc) half double crochet

• (2)hdc = place 2 hdc in the same stitch
• hdc(x) = Consecutive hdc.
• example: 2 hdc, hdc4 = place 2 hdc in the first stitch, then in the next 4 stitches you will place 1 hdc in each stitch.

(st) stitch

(sts) stitches

*....* = repeat instructions that are in the *'s

Each round after round 1 starts with 2hdc.  

• To remember how many hdc(x) just think of the round number you are on and add it to the 2 stitches you did for the 2hdc.

         example: Round 6: *2hdc, hdc4.* 8 times. (48 sts)

• means to place 2 half double crochets in the first stitch, then go to the next stitch 4 stitches and place 1 half double crochet in each stitch.  Then you will repeat this patter 8 times to give you 48 stitches all the way around.  
• You can tell you are round 6 because 2hdc + hdc4 = 6 stitches total

Pattern:

Side 1 (this will be the “inside” of the pot holder, so a solid is suggested.)

Decide how large you want your finished pot holder to be (size is estimated, so make sure you you measure before cutting your thread)

Make a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 2, 8 hdc in the magic ring. (8 sts)

Round 2: 2hdc in each stitch, 8 times. (16 sts)

Round 3: *2hdc, hdc.* Repeat 8 times. (24 sts)

Round 4: *2hdc, hdc2.* Repeat 8 times. (32 sts)

Round 5: *2hdc, hdc3.* Repeat 8 times. (40 sts)

Round 6: *2hdc, hdc4.* Repeat 8 times. (48 sts)

Round 7: *2hdc, hdc5.* Repeat 8 times. (56 sts)

Round 8: *2hdc, hdc6.* Repeat 8 times. (64 sts)

Round 9: *2hdc, hdc7.* Repeat 8 times. (72 sts)

Round 10: *2hdc, hdc8.* Repeat 8 times. (80 sts)

Round 11: *2hdc, hdc9.* Repeat 8 times. (88 sts)

Round 12: *2hdc, hdc10.* Repeat 8 times. (96 sts)

Round 13: *2hdc, hdc11.* Repeat 8 times. (104 sts)

Round 14: *2hdc, hdc12.* Repeat 8 times. (112 sts)

Round 15: *2hdc, hdc13.* Repeat 8 times. (120 sts)

Round 16: *2hdc, hdc14.* Repeat 8 times. (128 sts)

Round 17: *2hdc, hdc12.* Repeat 8 times. (136 sts)

Round 18: *2hdc, hdc13.* Repeat 8 times. (144 sts)

Round 19: *2hdc, hdc14.* Repeat 8 times. (152 sts)

Round 20: *2hdc, hdc14.* Repeat 8 times. (160 sts)

----------------------------------------------------------------

at the end of the last round: sl st into the first stitch of the round to join. Finish off and weave in ends.

Next round for side 1: (crochet in the front loop only for this round) You will use the 2nd yarn color (variegated) for this new round.  (picture shows what the back looks like)

Remember that round you are on is the number of total stitches you will do before repeating.  

• example: if your last round is Round 12: *2hdc, hdc10.* Repeat 8 times. (96 sts)
• Then this next round is considered Round 13: *2hdc, hdc11.* But you will only repeat this 7 times because the first time you do it you are adding an extra stitch (ch1).  This allows you to establish a link to hdc into.  So the first part of the instructions will say: Ch 1, 2hdc in the same stitch, hdc11.  *2hdc, hdc11.* Repeat 7 times (104 sts)

Join the second color to any stitch on the last round. Ch 1, 2hdc in the same stitch, hdc(x).  *2hdc, hdc(x).* Repeat 7 times. Join with a sl st to the first hdc of the round. Finish off and weave in ends. ((x) sts see round guide)

 sl st into the first stitch of the round to join. Finish off and weave in ends.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Side 2 (using the 2nd color. This will be the “outside” of the pot holder, the side that looks like it wraps around, variegated yarn is suggested)

You will crochet the exact same way you did for Side 1 except you will do all rounds.

• example: if your last round is Round 12: *2hdc, hdc10.* Repeat 8 times. (96 sts) which made you do the next round as Round 13.  Then for this side you will follow side 1 instructions all the way through Round 13: *2hdc, hdc11.* Repeat 8 times. (104 sts)

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Attaching the two sides together:  

Place the 2 sides together in the way you want it to look in the end.  I like Side 1 to have the back facing out so that there is a rim between colors and a more distinct spiral showing.  I like to have Side 2 right side facing out so you see the hdc stitches.  

sl st through the inside loops of each pad.  Leave outside loops alone.  

SC in the inside loops of each pad in each stitch.  

 sl st into the first stitch to join. Finish off and weave in ends.